Things to Do | Visit Chiba | Latest update:2025/12/01
Don Kennedy
Hi! My name is Don Kennedy and I shoot, edit, and produce photo and video work. Having grown up in a sleepy town in rural Australia, in 2005 I moved to the world's largest metropolis and have been loving living here ever since. I’m based on the east side of the city, near Ueno, and really enjoy the relaxed atmosphere, the warmth of the locals, and the history of the area. As Tokyo is such an incredibly walkable city, you might see me wandering around with a camera in hand during the day, or making the most of the amazing food options in an izakaya or restaurant at night.
Contents
Kamogawa Lien Brings Luxury to Chiba's Pacific CoastQuick FactsA Family Dream: The Story Behind the RyokanFrom Shuttered School to Seaside SanctuaryAn Exclusive Vision: The "Lien" PhilosophyInside the Ryokan: Rooms, Design & Private OnsenA Culinary Legacy: The Kaiseki ExperienceYour Authentic Japanese Seaside Escape (Getting Here)Frequently Asked Questions about Kamogawa Onsen LienFor Kunesaki Tatsuro, owner of Kamogawa Onsen Lien, the journey to creating Chiba Prefecture’s most luxurious ryokan was a long one. His late father, who was a fishmonger before transitioning into the hospitality business, had spent more than 20 years dreaming of building a proper inn worthy of his family’s culinary reputation. That vision, passed down through generations, would eventually transform an abandoned elementary school into one of Japan’s most captivating seaside retreats.
Kunesaki-san’s path in the ryokan business began early. His father entered the hotel business at 26, and he grew up helping his father with all aspects of the business. When Kunesaki-san was just 29 years old, his father passed away and he took over Maruki Honkan, the family’s original inn. “I’m the kind of person who can only do inns. My head’s wired that way,” he explains. Now he runs both Maruki Honkan and Lien, fulfilling his father’s dream while building upon decades of family hospitality expertise.
Finding the right location took years of searching, but when the shuttered Futomi Elementary School in Kamogawa City became available, Kunesaki-san knew he’d finally found the perfect canvas for his vision.
For over a decade, Futomi Elementary School had sat empty, evidence of Japan’s declining rural population. Where children once rushed through the entranceway, there was silence. Kunesaki-san approached the mayor saying he would transform it into something extraordinary. Permission was granted, and demolition began. The school building and the gym were demolished, but the pool remains as a centerpiece of the property’s stunning water features.
Construction began about five years ago, with the inn finally opening its doors in August 2021, just as the world emerged from the pandemic. Lien wasn’t built for mass tourism, this is a place where every detail of the guest experience has been carefully considered.
Entering from the car park behind the building, it becomes immediately obvious that how the ryokan is to be experienced has been taken into account. As we entered the main outside door, we were met by Kunesaki-san himself, who guided us inside. Once through the entrance, it’s as if you’ve gone through a gate to a secluded getaway. The tastefully designed entrance area is adorned with art and looks out onto the deep blue pool. The guest rooms are lined up next to each other, all facing a shallow reflecting pool with water glistening in the sun.
The name itself tells a story. “Lien” is French for “bond” or “connection,” chosen deliberately over the Japanese word “kizuna.” The concept was his wife’s idea, Kunesaki-san says she has final say on all naming matters in the family, from the inn and the rooms to their children. “I came up with a bunch of suggestions, but they all got shot down,” Kunesaki-san admits with a laugh. The Japanese word “kizuna” felt too straightforward for an inn name, so they borrowed its French equivalent, lending the property an air of European sophistication while maintaining its deeply Japanese philosophy of creating connections between guests, staff, and the property itself.
When planning Lien, Kunesaki-san set the audacious goal of creating the most expensive inn in Chiba Prefecture. The standard two-meal package price point was deliberately chosen to avoid competing with similar establishments. By positioning Lien at the premium end of the market, he ensured the inn would offer something genuinely unique rather than fighting for middle-market share.
This wasn’t arrogance, but strategy. The higher price point means he can deliver the luxurious accommodations, impeccable service, and cuisine his father had always wanted, justifying the cost. It’s an exclusive retreat, but intentionally so.
Location is everything and Lien occupies one of Kamogawa’s most enviable positions. The Futomi Kaigan Coast, beloved by writers and artists for generations, provides a backdrop where the Pacific Ocean meets endless sky. The property stretches horizontally along the coastline, and is designed as a single-story ryokan that maximizes ocean views from every angle.
Every sightline was meticulously planned. When you sit in certain spots, the water basin in the courtyard creates a visual connection to the sea beyond, a landscaping technique refined over centuries of Japanese garden design. Behind the pool, the hills rise dramatically, creating a sense of being on the edge of both mountain and sea. Each vantage point offers a different perspective on this convergence of land and water.
There are three types of rooms at Lien, each designed to be a world unto itself. The rooms consist of a large living space connected via a wide entrance to the main bedroom. The bathroom features an indoor bath as well as a Japanese-style outdoor hot spring bath, all tastefully designed with high-quality materials and finishes. Next to the living area in the ‘A’ type room is a dining room where guests can enjoy their meals in complete privacy.
The rooms have obviously been designed to be relaxed in, with guests able to have a private outdoor bath at any time of day and then relax indoors, or on the oversized papasan chair outside with a book. The rooms are bright and spacious, yet have the feeling of being secluded. You are in a world all to your own, removed from the stress of the outside.
For rooms without an attached dining room, there are also separate private dining rooms on the other side of the pool which can be used for breakfast and dinner, ensuring that every guest has access to a private dining experience.
The family’s hospitality roots run deep, but they began in the fish trade. Kunesaki-san’s father originally operated a fish shop before establishing the family’s first inn, Maruki Honkan. It had no ocean view, and when guests opened their windows, they could see only the neighboring houses. Because of that, the family compensated by focusing entirely on exceptional food. The reputation for quality cuisine became the foundation of their name.
This culinary legacy defines Lien’s dining experience. With direct access to Kamogawa’s renowned fishing waters and generations of expertise in selecting and preparing seafood, guests can expect kaiseki meals that showcase the region’s finest ingredients. This commitment to food quality is the foundation upon which the entire family business was built. Before his father died, he dreamed of finally creating an inn where the food would be matched by equally spectacular surroundings, and Lien fulfills that vision.
With Tokyo only a two-hour train journey away, for international travelers Lien represents authentic Japan without the tourist crowds. This coastal hideaway, still largely unknown to international markets, provides a luxury escape where guests can experience Japan’s coastal beauty in comfort and privacy, far from the standard sightseeing routes.
Q: What makes Kamogawa Onsen Lien a luxury ryokan? A: Lien is considered a premier luxury ryokan due to its exclusive features, including private outdoor hot spring (onsen) baths and ocean views for every room, exceptional kaiseki dining, and highly personalized service.
Q: How do you get to Kamogawa from Tokyo? A: Kamogawa is easily accessible from Tokyo Station. The JR Wakashio Express train provides a direct link, with the journey taking approximately two hours, making it an ideal luxury escape from the city.
Q: Are the hot spring baths at Lien private? A: Yes, all rooms at Kamogawa Onsen Lien are equipped with both an indoor bath and a private, Japanese-style outdoor hot spring bath (rotenburo) overlooking the ocean.
